Beautiful Folks of Old Piegaro

Michelle's Shop with Daniella, Gloria and Colleen

Enrico reluctantly lets his picture be taken.

Anna with the Warmest Welcome

Matteo and supplier tending business at the grocery

I realized I forgot to do one last blog on the beautiful people of Piegaro, those fun folks who have the sweet shops in the center of the old section of Piegaro.  One of my favorite aspects of Piegaro is the strong sense of community that lives within the constant foot traffic of those coming to shop for their daily needs.  Each day you meet so many of the people of town in addition to the great shopkeepers.
Michelle, the butcher was closed much of the time I was in Piegaro while he was on vacation, but made up for it with his gracious, warm presence as I went with Colleen as she shopped for a meal to be shared with Villa guests.  He artfully carved the meat to a sweet thin slice that would melt in the mouth and in a way that no meat cutter, only a true butcher could master.  All the while he was greeting the constant flow of people who entered his shop for their daily meats, or one for daily meets, just to visit.  On my last, sad morning in Piegaro before I left Michelle was one of the 3 people who purchased part of my breakfast at Caffe Via Roma, I was truly touched by his warmth and generosity.
His next door neighbors are Anna and Enrico a delightful couple who operate  adjoining businesses, a flower shop and a news/magazine shop.  At any given time, other than siesta of course, you will find one or both attending the shops and doing their best to help out even the most crazy American visitor.  Anna's shop is always perfumed with the most beautiful live flowers and cut flowers, and if you really want to see some amazing crafting of bouquets, just wander past the shop on Domenica dell'Ascensione as Anna prepared flowers for baptisms, confirmations and weddings.  Anna can best be described as a person who truly throws herself into everything, whether exuberant welcomes, or the crafting of beautiful bouquets, all is done with great flourish and wholeness of heart.  Anna lives large!  By contrast her husband Enrico is quiet, patient, and so shyly helpful that no matter what one asks for and the length of time it takes to translate/figure out what this crazy American is asking for, he's with you doing the best he can, with a sweet smile.
Finally in this little cluster of shops is the grocer, Matteo.  Matteo has movie star good looks who seemed to have a wonderful knack of stumbling into my path at several points in my journey in Piegaro.   After our initial meeting when Colleen was giving me the village tour, I literally ran into Matteo as he was heading to the shop, apparently late one morning and I was wandering about taking a morning walk.  The next encounter was quite humorous as Colleen sent me off to get Carrots, and I didn't know what they were called in Italian and could not find them with the fresh veggies.  "Carrots?" I asked, "Carrots?" he questioned back....."nyaaa What's up Doc" I said doing my best Bugs Bunny impersonation.  "Ah, Carote" and he found a very Trader Joe's package of the orange delicacies for me.  I think that established my street cred as a weirdo, and I truly appreciated that he always seemed amused after that...perhaps waiting for another imitation...hmmmm perhaps next year I pull out Mickey Mouse for something, except I know Formage ???
Finally something that touched my heart in the center of old town was the amazing Museo Del Vetrio, the Museum of Glass.  Piegaro has been a glass town since the 13th century, with a rich tradition of bottle making.  In the last few years they have opened this wonderful museum, but my understanding it came to life under the leadership of their new curator, Chiara.  We entered the museum on Mother's Day, with the children outside selling their glass wares, made in classes taught at the museum, and others selling Italian traditional azaleas as a breast cancer fundraiser.  Wow, great community builder before stepping into the building!  But once inside the building there was a wonderful array of historical displays mixed with art created from the village glass to artfully presented arrangements of glass.  The museum is a place of education, community and beauty, truly one of the best "industrial" museums I have ever seen.  When I mentioned how wonderful it is, and that she is a great curator, Chiara blushed and said, "I am blessed to be able to do the work I studied for and love."  Truly blessed are all who get to experience this place, and Chiara's blessing is ours as well.
So ends the blogs on the people of Piegaro, it ends where it started, with my deep awareness that the answer to the tourist's question to me in Assisi, "what was the most wonderful thing in Italy for you?"  It was, is, and will always be the people, the heart and soul of this country of heart and soul. It is a people rooted in centuries of community, work and worship.  It is people who bring beauty to the sacred, and acknowledge the blessings in their lives.  It makes me wonder if a country like ours, with such a short history and an average of citizens moving every 3 years, can go as deep into community and relationship.  And finally how do we make the most of our spirituality within our culture - in Christian terms, how can we most love God and neighbor - to the fullest in our daily life and in our neighborhood, being the most wonderful thing about our neighborhood, community, city, state and country.

Museo del Vetro displays over 700 years of glass making in Piegaro

The Hospitable Host of Greppolishieto

Our guide inside and outside the village walls

Our guide leads us through the village

Let us begin by saying I have no idea how to make the name of this quaint hamlet roll off my tongue, for that matter, it may be misspelled....however, there is one thing I am sure of, this place is filled with the spirit of St. Francis, the sense of nature, spirit, and amazing stone define this sweet town.
As we arrived at the parking below town I was struck by the sign with map of the hiking trails that wove down through the valley and hills in the are.  We were on a time-limited mission of exploring sacred places, with no time to hike, but wow the view from the hillside town of the beautiful woods below called out to truly explore God's sacred space in nature.  I made a mental note to return to hike this beautiful countryside and then we walked toward the village.
On the outskirts of the village was a sweet farm house with a stone wall and gateway, sitting atop the entryway was a beautiful and aloof cat.  I called "gatti, gatti, gatti" and after slowly, casually looking this way and that the cat acknowledged my presence and actually came over.  After the briefest of greetings our new friend proceeded to lead us into the village.
We entered the village near the chapel with a grand stone plaza built in memory of the villagers who died in WWI.  Encircling the plaza where beautiful wrought iron crosses on the edge of the low lying wall that surrounded the town and from this vantage point looked over the woodlands in the valley and hillside surrounding the hamlet.  I could imagine when chapel let out and coming onto this plaza what an amazing sense of the sacred there would be going from liturgical worship space into the vast glory of God's creation before you, with the reminder of love for those who have passed on before us.
Our host beckoned us on, through a traditional Italian archway into the inner village, where all the homes' entrys were, as were small yet beautiful gardens and a multitude of window boxes filled with geraniums and other flowers.  Il gatto kept leading the way, to view so many signs of the sacred, from artwork of Mary and Jesus to just the sheer grandure of a centuries old stone village that breathed of life, even though all inhabitants were away at work and school.  It was like a magical tour through a mystical place where our small group had the quiet and time to explore with our newfound friend.
As it came time to leave our host walked us around the walls outside the village, taking us back to where we began, leaping to the top at his post again, watching over the village and valley, ready to greet the next group of visitors.  I, to this day, can't get over the gift of the cat, the gift of a host to lead us through a village that was his own.  The whole experience reminded me of the awareness of St. Francis of the divine within all of God's creation, in this case, within our friend the gatto di Greppolishieto.  How do you greet the sacred in the "other" be it human, animal, or nature?  How do you let the "other" greet and take you to mystical places?

Colleen returning from the Icon our host led her to.Thanking our beloved host

Prima Amica - Lila

Lila A good friend and Lisa

My first named friend in Piegaro Italy was Lila, I was blessed with many friends in Piegaro, but Lila was the first to call me "Amica."  In context we were at the caffe where Lila works, just chatting away and someone asked if I was her mother.  Lila patted my shoulder and said, "No, es mi amica Lisa!"  Lila is a beautiful, young, vivacious girl who spoke English, one of few in the village, what a breath of fresh air.  For all the great fun I had trying to communicate with my Italian friends, it was nice to have evenings of conversation and fun with Lila.  I had a little too much fun at times, using my normal slang, song lyric and movie references, talking very quickly..."piano, piccolo" Lila would say, as she asked me to slow down and use my little words.  Lila was so dear to introduce me to her mother, Ina.  Ina too is beautiful and it was great to chat with her and Colleen about motherhood and being an immigrant to this  community.
One of the treasures of getting to know Lila was that she is the age of my children, and it was nice to have a little surrogate in Piegaro, with all the sass and craziness of a teenager I have grown so fond of in my life and missed being away from my own kids.  It was a comfort to hear her stories of hating school, of her boyfriend (now fiancee) , of her horse and her struggles as a daughter with her mother, so much of life is universal in our world :-)
It is always a gift to have friends, and nothing could have warmed my heart more than being called friend by Lila.  In our lives we often put such an emphasis on romance or finding "the one" - but there is a special grace in making friends wherever we go.  There is a sacred place in knowing the true treasure in opening ourselves to friendships and seeing the grace of love in the people we meet.  It was in sharing stories with Lila that I realized how much my heart desired to speak Italian so I could share as much with all my new found friends, it deepens to speak directly without a translator, and certainly without that dog of a tool, google translator.  I often laugh when using that tool to translate the messages of my Italian friends on facebook now and realize how goofy the translations are.  It is much more magical to speak and share in person.
I look forward to seeing dear Lila again, my friend, mi amica, who is the reflection of my beautiful daughter and young friends here.  It begs the question, how can we see connections to those and what make our heart sings no matter where we are??  How do we allow friendship to flourish in unsuspected places and open our hearts to all the love that friendship offers??? How do we take our hospitality out to all who cross our paths, to speak slowly and intentionally for the blossoming of beautiful relationships?   Friends like Lila are truly a gift from God - a gift I get to continue to enjoy via facebook and when I return again to my beloved Piegaro.


Lila and Mom, Ina

Beautiful friends

The Everything Store

Maria Pia and the most beautiful pot for our Peace Plant - Grazie!!

I grew up learning to read via books of poetry my mother would read in her sing-song voice and as I walked through the doors of the Everything Store I could hear mom's voice "Jonathan Jo has a mouth like an O and a wheelbarrow full of surprises, if you ask for a bat or something like that, he has it no matter the size is..."  The amazing Everything Store in Piegaro is just like that, just ask and they will have whatever it is an an assortment of sizes.  Socks, slippers, potting soil, household cleaner, ceramic pots, and cappuccino cups are among the array of things I popped in for and got to see the array that would come off of shelves reaching the ceiling.
Maria Pia, Gian Pietro and their daughter Cristiana operate this little piece of paradise, and they are always willing to serve to the greatest of their ability.  A little language  issue was a barrier they were always willing to to overcome to help find exactly what is needed.  My favorite time visiting the shop was when I was in need of one more pot, a rather largish one, for a Peace Plant.  While I was roaming the pots out front and looking at the prices, I must have made quite a face, because Maria Pia lept up, "Un atimo!"  When she returned she had a beautiful white pot with a glorious shape, "Picollo defetto" and pointed to a small line inside the pot that did not show through to the outside, a very minor crack, "Cinque Euros" - less than 1/2 the price of the others.  God bless her, she truly was about getting what was needed, I simply couldn't afford a more expensive pot, but she provided the most beautiful one for what I could afford.
That was so much of the family way to bring out what was needed.  It was Cristiana who told us we MUST be at the processione, one of the most spiritual moments of my life.  It was Gian Pietro who was the first to totally "pose" for my camera as I gathered pictures of all these beloved neighbors in Piegaro.  But one thing I so appreciated about the family was their great conservation spirit - they are the first store owners I ever met who would sit outside their shop, or in a doorway on a rainy day, with all the lights off.  The electricity isn't used until the customers come, then Maria Pia, Gian Pietro or Cristiana light up with the lights of the store, smiling and ready to serve.  In a church where we are constantly attempting to live fully "green" these folks have the habit down pat, without stifling their hospitality!
I look forward to returning to Piegaro and asking about their family business, how long in the family, will Cristiana keep the store into the future, how do they gather such an amazing array of merchandise for such a fabulous shop, do they find the store as wonderful as I do????   How can I say thank you for truly being so present to one traveler's basic needs???   I love these guys!!

Gian Pietro poses as the Processione passes by.

Cristiana as always calling out a friendly greeting!!

Newest Facebook Friend - Gianni

Gianni welcoming all at the door of Caffe Via Roma

As I sorted through pictures of Piegaro I found the greatest irony in the picture of the young men of Caffe Via Roma, that is Gianni holding up my English/Italian translation book.  Gianni and I spoke multiple times in Piegaro, he in Italian me in English never really translating, or even trying.  We spoke as the circumstance dictated.  Laughing with the crowd about my crazy painting purchase of the "Guffo/Gatti" - or as he looked in on the group looking at the Art book for Magnum.  I think we totally got the gist of what one another was saying.  We were all laughing at the painting, with comments flying as we shared amusement over the dubbed "genetic catastrophe".  And when he didn't look as interested as the rest in the book, I asked him to look intelligent for the photo, which he did, now that takes intelligence!
As my newest Facebook friend I enjoyed the latest posting Gianni had of the Italian flag laid out as the worlds most important foods:  basil, garlic (or is it cheese - either top my list), and tomato.  One of the reasons I loved this post is that it so reminded me of my basic cooking lesson with Pasquelina Verdi - "Lisa es garlic, basil, e tomato - most important!" in her delightful broken English.  She encouraged me to go out into the field behind the home I rented from her and pick all the tomatoes, garlic and basil I needed, dinner was always at reach.  Just as I felt at home at Pasquelina's I felt at home in Piegaro with friends like Gianni and his gift to just be himself - Italian, proud of it but open to friendship with this crazy Americana.
Being authentic is a key to life that many of us struggle with.  We really want others to like us, and often become "posers" trying to be all that others want us to be.  Gianni is Gianni, spoke to me in his own language, posts his pride in country and food - such a fun way!!  I look forward to getting to know him better next year and know more about his beloved Italy, it's food, what it is to BE Italian for him.
Likewise, I think that is an essential question for us all at different parts of our own lives, to ask the questions of who we are, what is essential to me, how do I self identify and how do I live confidently in my own skin to take my authentic self out into God's world as I am fully created to be.

The boys - Gianni holding the book we never used to communicate - who needs translations?!?!

The Intelligencia at the Caffe Discussing Art.

Giocanda, easy to love neighbor

The Bella Neighbors of 'l Antica Vetreria

Giocanda was someone I saw every day I was in Piegaro, she is the neighbor who lives in the home adjoining l' Antica Vetreria, where we were staying.  Every day she would greet us, morning, noon, and night every time we met she would shout a greeting.  There were a couple of days during my stay that she wasnt' out, she was tending her sick husband, Tito.  There was the day she greeted us, as she wept for him, we sent our love and prayers, and were touched by her sharing.
When Tito returned home from the hospital, Giocanda was so happy, even though the weather was cloudy, she radiated sunshine.  This week as Tito returned to God after a battle with cancer, my heart aches for Giocanda.  Never could you ask for a better neighbor.
In Scripture of Christianity and Judaism, in texts of Hindi, Buddhism, Taoism and Islam there are words to the effect or exactly stating "love your neighbor."  As a foreigner in a strange land nothing can touch your soul like the love of a neighbor, the care folks take in being hospitable.  I certainly love Piegaro with all my heart, but I'm realistic to know that not all the people there were good neighbors, it is not a perfect place, this is not a perfect world.  In one instance someone came to speak with me at the Caffe, but got riled when I was taking pictures of "them".  He said, "Don't take pictures of them they are Macedonians, they are not Italians."  After I pointed out that I was not Italian either, and I was taking pictures of all, he left.  Martin pointed out that he was crazy, and not to mind, but the reality is that our world has plenty of people who are not terribly neighborly.
Which makes people like Giocanda more important in our lives.  She inspires others, including myself to greet everyone we meet on the road.  All people are worthy of a greeting, an acknowledgment of the the sacredness of   all of God's people.  She reminds why we are called to love our neighbors - authentically, from where we are to them where they are.  This does not mean we will be best of friends, but rather that we are all worthy of relationship.
This day after the passing of Tito my heart and prayers are with Giocanda, who's heart was big enough to welcome this American, this foreigner.  God bless you in your mourning, may the Spirit hold you gently, may the love of Christ keep you always in care.

Giocanda, a very good neighbor!

World's Greatest Barrista??? Well, my favorite, Martin!

Martin - the glare of the glasses does not glow as much as his Spirit.

This girl is one tough customer, I often ask for the craziest things, but always enjoy a straight up yes or no to my request, please no mamby-pambing around.  So after being in Piegaro only a few days and realizing that Caffe Via Roma not only had great coffee, great customers, but a swell place for me to work on my computer during my "working vacation" I asked if I could hang out at the telephone stand and work.  It was optimal, the table at the perfect height, the wood floors that were easy on the legs, and constant life going on through the doorway at the bar.  Looking back I realize it was an odd sort of selfish request, but Martin said yes.
Martin is fabulous at hosting, serving and caring for the people who walk through the doors of Caffe Via Roma, whether family, workers in town, locals, Moravian expats or this crazy Americana, all are treated with courtesy and respect.   On the Caffe facebook he sums up his role at Via Roma perfectly, "l'importante che se ne parli..."- "it is important that we speak."  Martin sets the tone for the Caffe, where people come to speak and share their hearts.  Yet it is a place where being open and often emotional did not take away from the place, I felt in due to Martin's non-anxious presence.  For me it was a great place of calm in a world that often is so rushed, hurried and weary, and was soooooo appreciated.
The amusing part is that I relied on Martin often to translate with Maria or other folks in the Caffe, and he knows about as much English as I do Italian - but he was a great charades partner.  I would act out, say in Spanish, try to find synonyms that might be Latin in origin and he would respond, "Ahhhh..." and bring forth the correct word or phrase in Italian.  He is so helpful in opening up communication for myself and others in a gracious way.    The communication barrier became fun as we all tried to get to know one another.
In my joy of finding someone who could guide me a bit in communication, I'm sure I made things difficult for Martin in several ways.  The one day I was traveling through Umbria alone I ask for his opinion on the best way to travel to Todi that would be picturesque...then complained that I didn't want to take the Autostrada, as if I knew best.  As I left Todi I remembered the hurt in his eyes at my not taking his suggestion, so thus drove home the way he suggested.  Within a few kilometers the Tiber River (Tivere) opened before me, it took my breathe away with it's amazing beauty....so now I felt REALLY guilty, the man truly knows the most scenic drive to Todi!
In my weeks in Piegaro Martin was my workplace host, my friend and my "bodyguard"???  No, not really, but that was what one customer asked when referring to an incident when, quite unbeknown to myself, an unwanted suitor accompanied me to my home one day under false pretenses and Martin  simply came along, chaperoning.     As he explained to the customer, he was not my bodyguard, but a friend who was providing me a place of calm in which to be and work..... and I am so grateful.  Also grateful that the people in the town would talk so openly, even about me, while I was in listening range.  I liked that Martin would call the men who gave me unwanted attention, "Crazy" - not anything demeaning or hurtful but so true.  It is my theory that we are all crazy in our own ways and how we function together in our madness without hurting one another is the key to life.  The constant conversations at the Caffe encouraged by Martin was a way to bring together and hold so lovingly the people of Piegaro, a band of crazies, just as we need to gently hold together all people, all the crazy world.
One funny thing we had in common, always a thing I like to look for is common places, is wearing bracelets.  Someone in the caffe asked once what my "fruits of the spirit" bracelets were, basically my reminder to behave and it was fun to see a customer advise Martin how best to use his bracelets in the same manner.  It was a conversation they were having on behaviors when the gentleman reached across and snapped Martin's bracelet, as some folks do when wearing a rubber band to snap when they want to smoke.  It's a small world where can use accessories as reminders - so every now and then I shall snap a bracelet as I remember Martin.
I can't imagine Piegaro without a person like Martin, being host of the Caffe.  My friend Colleen has been visibly disappointed that Martin's partner, Arnica, is no longer running the Caffe, a person Colleen could rely on for English speaking company, which I know is so important to her.  But Martin's being a home boy, with family nearby always, seemed to be a great asset to me, as with other people I met he belonged to this place, he has history,  roots and connection to the people.  I loved how the community from young to old hung out in this special place with this special person.
Next year in Piegaro, when I speak Italiano I shall be able to ask Martin questions like, what did you do before working at the caffe, and do you love this work you are so amazingly good at?  Do you miss your old work?  Is it a comfort to have your family so close?  It was so cool to me how they were always around as my relatives live so far away.  How is the turning of the world's economy effecting your beautiful shop and community?

Martin with his dad, Rodolfo outside Bar Caffe Via Roma.

Sharing stories, books and beverages.